I went to Centrico tonight for a quick dinner. Part of the Myriad Group, I wasn't sure what to expect.
On the one hand I am a fan of Nobu, on the other hand I am always skeptical of restaurants belonging to a "restaurant group," and I tend to favor smaller outfits.
The first thing I noticed was the $12 guacamole. I was surprised to see such a high price tag, but as I looked around, every other table had an order of the guac so of course I sucked it up and ordered one too.
Big mistake. Maybe the worst $12 I have spent in a long time. I like my guacamole choppy, not smooth as that's the only way I know it's really fresh.
Centrico's $12 version is very smooth - as in supermarket smooth. Flavor was bland with the only outstanding taste being lime and sour. The chips were even worse - stale. None of the fresh warm ones a la Mercadito.
The entrees were better. The short ribs were actually cooked very tender and served nicely with warm tortillas, make your own taco style.
The portion was nice, the meat cooked perfectly, but the flavor again was a little lacking. Not much marinade - the flavor was just mostly meaty.
The Camarones Y Pozole appetizer had nice flavor with the creamy guajillo chile sauce, but the shrimps were disappointingly small. I feel as though they could have come straight from the freezer aisle at Trader Joe's.
All in all, I'd say Centrico is a miss - and judging by the crowd tonight, I'm not the only one who thinks so.
Centrico
211 West Broadway (Corner of Franklin)
212-431-0700
http://myriadrestaurantgroup.com/centrico/index.html
June 8, 2009
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